Flex Duct Cfm Chart
Flex Duct Cfm Chart - I am looking to understand if my supply trunks are sized correctly to support the existing branches and duct runouts. You can seal with mastec and get duct wrap insulation. So using.1 fr for all of the duct work means you will loose over.2 of static pressure. Flex has a high resistance to air flow then sheet meatal. So to increase air flow by/for.6 ton would be 240 cfm. Don't take this wrong, but you didn't look too hard. And a ductulator for sheet metal duct can't be used on flex.
I know doing the manual d is the right way. But initially looking to get a rough idea based on the sizing chart. It's hard on the motor's module having high duct pressure. The furnace/coil is variable speed blower.
So to increase air flow by/for.6 ton would be 240 cfm. A 14x20 grille(non filter) is generally okay for 525 cfm at 300 fpm. Not often will you get 230 cfm from an 8 flex duct. Don't take this wrong, but you didn't look too hard. So a problem at high cfm. This is the proper way to size ducts if you need a specific flow rate.
A 14x30 grille(non filter) is generally okay for 787 cfm at 300 fpm. The compressor is variable stage, up to 700 stages. A 14x20 grille(non filter) is generally okay for 525 cfm at 300 fpm. You can seal with mastec and get duct wrap insulation. And avoid the extra $1400 or so to drop the ceiling.
1 ton of air is generally considered 400 cfm. Subtracting.03 for supply register pd,.03 for return grille,.03 for supply damper,.07 for fiberglass air filter. The furnace/coil is variable speed blower. It's hard on the motor's module having high duct pressure.
The Calculator Will Tell You Which Diameter You Have To Use.
So to increase air flow by/for.6 ton would be 240 cfm. Flex has a high resistance to air flow then sheet meatal. A 14x20 grille(non filter) is generally okay for 525 cfm at 300 fpm. It's hard on the motor's module having high duct pressure.
A 14X30 Grille(Non Filter) Is Generally Okay For 787 Cfm At 300 Fpm.
The concern is when higher cfm is needed, return air might be reduced. The cfm's in my other post is from hart&cooley's engineer catalog. 1 ton of air is generally considered 400 cfm. It does cool the house and keep humidity at 50%.
Don't Take This Wrong, But You Didn't Look Too Hard.
I know doing the manual d is the right way. From there, take the cfm on the chart you posted at the total pressure drop you're using (maybe 0.1 or 0.2) and plug it into a duct calculator online, along with the friction rate. This is the proper way to size ducts if you need a specific flow rate. Subtracting.03 for supply register pd,.03 for return grille,.03 for supply damper,.07 for fiberglass air filter.
Not Often Will You Get 230 Cfm From An 8 Flex Duct.
I am looking to understand if my supply trunks are sized correctly to support the existing branches and duct runouts. E.g., in the table at the above link, there are three cfm entries (600, 700, 800) for a 12 round metal duct. So a problem at high cfm. So far this summer system is running at a low stages and slow air flow speed.
E.g., in the table at the above link, there are three cfm entries (600, 700, 800) for a 12 round metal duct. And a ductulator for sheet metal duct can't be used on flex. This is the proper way to size ducts if you need a specific flow rate. You can seal with mastec and get duct wrap insulation. Not often will you get 230 cfm from an 8 flex duct.